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Yes! We ship to over 150 different countries around the world!
Check individual item descriptions for shipping times. More complex/custom made flow gear will take a bit longer to arrive due to its individualized craftsmanship.
Simple orders that take less time to craft you can expect in 1-3 business days + shipping time. Complex orders can often take up to 12 business days to arrive.
Tracking information will be sent to the email address you used to order as soon as the package is shipped.
Large Orders Please contact us for the best possible shipping deal for your order. We work hard to make it work for you!
Orders Received AFTER 5 P.M. PST are received the following business day.
For beginner hoopers, the general rule of thumb is:
Big weighted hula hoops are best for waist hooping.
Small lightweight hula hoops are best for learning hula hoop tricks in the hands and for arm hooping.
The bigger and heavier the hoop, the slower it spins giving you more time to connect with it on your waist. As hula hoops reduce in size, they become more challenging on the body with their faster spin. While a small light weight hoop may not be ideal for waist hooping, it will be your best friend as you learn hula hoop tricks in the hands and on the arms.
Hula hoop height (diameter) should measure from the floor to approximately 2 to 3 inches above your belly button.
Most adults start with a hoop between 38″ – 42″ diameter.
When deciding on a firehoop, think about your regular hoop. What is it made out of? What size tubing? What size hoop? Some choose to go slightly smaller than their regular hoop to make up for the clearance lost in spine length. You can expect added weight from the wicks, yet you will delight in how light our firehoops are compared to anything else available.
For flow arts purposes, the length of the staff should come right in between your shoulder and chin height.
For a person 5’9″ and up, a 5′ staff is recommended.
If doing Martial Arts staff fighting moves, staff should come to your forehead height.
A shorter Staff:
They are short and light usually, much easier to transport, easier to carry around to practice. Very good for baton style moves. Lots of little spins around the place. Good for doubles when you are learning, not so good for contact, because they are not very heavy, but it is possible. They do also need to be pushed a lot which means to keep the spin going you need to exert a lot more force and they are easier to burn yourself with as there are flames really close to you the whole time. It is also hard to hurt yourself when practicing if you whack yourself there is not a lot of kinetic energy behind it. It is not going to bump and leave a bruise as much as a long staff. A short staff is generally shorter than twice your arm length.
A longer Staff:
They are really good for speed and for contact moves which roll around the body. The weight allows it to have its own momentum. The length of the staff can limit the number of moves you want to do, particularly if it is going to keep hitting the ground, so it is not particularly a good idea to have it much taller than yourself. Ground to shoulder height is a good length to start with.
It is normal for wick to fray.. the typical protocol is to “trim & glue.” Dabbing-on a little Elmer’s glue minimizes fraying. Elmer’s is non-toxic and actually “cements up” once burned. This has been the traditional approach for ages, with all wicked fire props. Eventually, wick may need to be replaced, but it depends on fuel type, abuse/impact/abrasion and “burn etiquette” ..meaning, when possible, put your flame out before it goes out by itself. Once all the fuel has been burned from a wick, the flame will start burning the actual wick, instead of just fuel.. so this will deteriorate the wick faster.
Our hoops are strong enough and can survive incidental drops and hits. Despite this fact, you should bear in mind that this is a technically complex device. Be careful with it and use training hoops for practice. It will help extend the life of your pixels.
LED flow props are super durable and can handle bumps, hits and reasonable temperature fluctuations, but they are NOT designed to be waterproof. They can generally stand up to rain without issue, but they are electronics.
Definitely not! Glowsticks can degrade your tubes and cause your prop to shatter.
Although polycarbonate is an extremely strong and resistant material, glowsticks will make polycarbonate brittle.
Before you burn, please make sure you are prepared and confident. Wear tighter fitting clothes and never burn alone! For more information on fire safety, Home of Poi Fire Safety Guidelines includes an extensive explanation of fuels, safety procedures and basic first aid for burns.
If you are spinning fire in public spaces, YOU are responsible for any and all damage to property and injury to yourself and others. Be responsible when spinning fire! The North American Fire Arts Association has resources for fire artists including safety, insurance and guidelines for obtaining fire permits.
Coleman/White Gas (camping fuel): Cleanest burning, Fast ignition with a shorter/moderate burn length. An orangey-yellow flame, great for night.
Lamp/Candle Oil (pure paraffin): Long burns but slow to ignite, and touch stinky/smokey. Great for inclimate weather. Somewhere between white gas and kerosene on the clean burning spectrum. Has a more reddish flame than anything. Ultra Pure Lamp Oil or UPLO is recommended for for fire breathing as well.
Kerosene: Quick to ignite but a short burn time. Most smelly, smokey and leaves most residue on tools. Slows down in cold weather. More of a deep orange flame.
Our fuel of choice is a mixture of Coleman white gas (aka camping fuel) and lamp oil (pure paraffin). Both can be found at hardware or outdoor recreation stores. Coleman white gas is highly combustible and ignites easily! However, it burns fast, so expect a shorter burn time. Lamp oil takes awhile to light, especially in cold or damp weather but burns longer. By using a mixture of the two, we feel we have the best of both worlds. Quick, dynamic light and longer burn. Look for 99% smokeless & odorless lamp oil!
We have some tips and tricks on taking good pictures and videos that we would love to share. You need to have good manual camera control, and we recommend using a tripod.
To get motion blur on the prop, but not the performer, you can:
1. Make the prop move fast while the performer stays still, and/or include a flash.
2. Combine two photos taken at different exposure times, using a tripod. This is not as hard as it sounds, and provides the best effect. Most “similar” photos we see are from method 1.
Frame-rate: If you use a 1/60 exposure time in a 30fps video, how much image/light/trail will you capture per frame? ½ of the frame.
This means you’re missing half the light and action, and there will be a big dark gap in your trails for every frame. It will probably be a gap bigger than the performer’s head, and depending on how fast they are spinning, it could be much bigger. A good general rule is 30/30. Shoot at 30fps with 1/30 exposure.
It can happen on a number of reasons. We recommend the following solutions:
1) Check out if your card is not temporarily blocked by provider.
2) Check out if your card limit is not exceeded.
3) Try to use another browser.
5) Try to change payment method, credit card vs PayPal.
6) Get in touch with us for alternative methods of payment.
To cancel an order email us directly though our contact page.
If the order has not yet been shipped and is cancelled and payment has already been made, we will refund you the purchase price.
If the order has been shipped then you must return the unwanted products to us unused and in their original packaging at your risk and at your cost within thirty days of delivery. We will credit your card with the cost of the product. Please note there is a 25% restocking fee.
See individual product descriptions for possible exceptions and exclusions to this policy.